603. CELERY-FENNEL CHOWDER with OYSTERS and BACON

serves 8


for the Chowder Base
4 strips bacon, cut crosswise into julienne
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 large leeks, trimmed and rinsed
2 fennel bulbs (about 3/4 pound), tops trimmed, quartered and cored, sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
6 ribs celery, washed and sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
1/2 cup chopped garlic
1 1/2 tablespoons fennel seed, toasted and ground
pinch crushed red pepper flakes
2 bay leaves
1 1/2 cups white wine
3/4 cup oyster liquor (reserved from shucked oysters, see assembly below)
1/4 cup Pernod or Ricard (anise liquor, optional)
3 cups chicken stock

Combine the julienned bacon and olive oil and cook over medium heat until the bacon is rendered and crisp. Remove the bacon to paper toweling to drain, reserving the oil-bacon fat mixture.

Split the leeks lengthwise and wash thoroughly to remove sand and grit. Slice crosswise 1/4 inch thick. Warm the oil-fat mixture over medium heat and stir in the leeks, fennel, and celery; reduce the heat to medium-low and cover the pan. Cook the vegetables, covered, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 15 minutes, until soft.

Add the garlic, fennel seed, red pepper flakes, and bay leaves; cook 2 minutes. Add the wine, oyster liquor (reserved from the oysters that will be added during assembly), and optional Pernod; bring to a boil. Add the chicken stock, bring to a simmer, and cook until the vegetables are tender. Remove from heat, cool slightly, remove the bay leaves, and purée in a blender or food processor. Pass through the fine blade of a food mill if desired. Chill and reserve or continue with the instructions for garnish and assembly.

for the Garnish
1/4 cup minced fennel green tops or 1/4 cup chopped tarragon
1/4 pound redskin new potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

Mince the fennel tops and set aside.

Cut the new potatoes into dice. Place in a small saucepot with just enough water to barely cover the potatoes. Add a pinch of salt, bring to a boil, and simmer until tender; drain, then cool in cold water. Drain and reserve.

for the Optional Pernod Sabayon
2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar
1 tablespoon minced shallot
2 tablespoons white wine
2 tablespoons Pernod or Ricard
1 egg yolk
1/4 cup heavy cream
salt

Combine the vinegar, shallot, wine, and anise liquor in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil; reduce by half, strain, and cool. Combine the reduction and the egg yolk in a double boiler. Whisk over medium heat until thickened and lemon-colored. Remove from heat. Whip the cream until it forms stiff peaks; fold in the egg mixture and season with salt. Reserve, refrigerated.

for Assembly
1/2 cup half-and-half
tarragon vinegar, grated lemon zest, salt, black pepper, and Tabasco to taste
1 1/2 pints shucked oysters, drained (with oyster liquor reserved for chowder)

Assembly
Heat the chowder base over medium-low heat. Stir in the half-and-half, adjust the consistency with additional stock if necessary, and season with tarragon vinegar, grated lemon zest, salt, freshly ground black pepper, and Tabasco to taste.

Raise the heat to medium-high. When the chowder just begins to bubble, stir in the drained oysters and cook 1 minute, or until the oysters are barely curled.

Divide the potatoes between warm bowls. Divide the oysters into the bowls and then ladle chowder over. Spoon a dollop of sabayon into the center of each and sprinkle with bacon and minced fennel tops. Serve immediately.


courtesy of: Not Afraid of Flavor: Recipes from Magnolia Grill by Ben and Karen Barker. University of North Carolina Press, 2000