Wednesday, September 08, 2010

1949. BACON-WRAPPED LOIN of KID and QUINCY JELLY GLAZE with GOATS' CHEESE DAUPHINOISE POTATOES, CARAWAY CARROT PUREE and BUTTERED BROAD BEANS

serves four


For the goats' cheese dauphinoise potatoes
2 oz. butter, for greasing
3 lb, 3 oz waxy potatoes, peeled, thinly sliced on a mandoline
salt and freshly ground black pepper
7 oz. goats' cheese
2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
10½ fl oz double cream
10½ fl oz goats' milk

For the kid
2 kid loins, cut into 12 slices, each 2-in thick
12 rashers smoked streaky bacon, cut in half lengthways
knob of butter
4 tbsp sunflower oil
1 bunch fresh sage, leaves only

For the quince jelly glaze
2 oz. unsalted butter
1 garlic clove, crushed to a paste with the edge of a knife
5 oz. quince jelly
1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary leaves
3 tbsp fresh beef stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the vegetables
14 oz carrots, peeled, chopped
2 tbsp caraway seeds
salt and freshly ground black pepper
7 oz broad beans, pods removed (podless weight)
2 oz butter
2 oz quince and fig 'cheese', thinly sliced, to serve

Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6.

For the goats' cheese dauphinoise potatoes, grease the insides of a large ovenproof dish liberally with butter. Arrange a layer of potato slices in the bottom of the dish, and season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Repeat the layering process, seasoning between each potato layer, until the layers of potato slices reach halfway up the sides of the dish. Crumble over the goats' cheese and sprinkle over the garlic. Continue to layer the potatoes, seasoning between each layer of potato slices, until all of the potato slices have been used up. Pour over the cream and goats' milk until the liquid just covers top layer of potato slices. Cover the dish with aluminium foil and transfer to the oven. Bake for one hour, or until the potatoes are just tender, then remove the foil and return the dish to the oven for a further 12-15 minutes, or until the top layer is crisp and golden-brown. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool slightly. Cut the dauphinoise potatoes into squares and keep warm.

For the kid, wrap each slice of kid loin in one of the halved bacon rashers and secure with a cocktail stick. Heat the butter and two tablespoons of the oil in a large, ovenproof frying pan over a medium to high heat. When the oil is hot, add the wrapped kid loins and fry for 1-2 minutes, on each side, or until browned on both sides. Transfer the pan to the oven and continue to cook for 5-8 minutes, or until the kid loins are just cooked and the bacon is crisp. Remove from the oven and set aside to rest for 4-5 minutes. Heat the remaining two tablespoons of oil in a separate pan, add the sage leaves and fry for one minute, or until crisp. Remove from the pan using a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on kitchen paper.

For the quince jelly glaze, heat the butter in a pan over a medium heat. When the butter is foaming, add the garlic and fry for 1-2 minutes, or until softened but not coloured. Add the quince jelly and stir until it has dissolved. Add the rosemary leaves and beef stock and stir until well combined. Season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then bring the mixture to a simmer and continue to simmer for a further 1-2 minutes, or until the mixture has thickened slightly.

Meanwhile, for the vegetables, bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the carrots and caraway seeds and cook for 6-8 minutes, or until tender. Drain well, then transfer the boiled carrots and caraway seeds to a food processor and blend to a purée. (Add a little cooking water to the mixture to loosen the purée as necessary.) Season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bring a separate pan of salted water to the boil, add the broad beans and cook for 1-2 minutes, or until just tender. Drain well and refresh the beans in cold water, then peel away the outer membranes from the beans and set aside. Heat the butter in a separate pan over a medium heat. When the butter has melted, add the cooked beans and stir until coated in the melted butter and warmed through. Season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

To serve, place one square of goats' cheese dauphinoise potatoes into the centre of each of four serving plates. Spread a spoonful of the quince jelly glaze in a circle onto each plate and place three pieces of wrapped kid loin on top of each. Balance a slice of the quince and fig 'cheese' on top of each serving. Top with one deep-fried sage leaf. Spoon the buttered broad beans alongside. Using two spoons, make quenelles of the carrot and caraway purée alongside.


bacon recipe courtesy of: The Hairy Bikers, The Hairy Bikers' Food Tour of Britain, BBC-Food

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